I’d argue it’s closer to hand made than manufacturing due to most people only having the ability to crank out small batches of prints as a side hustle. I still think it’s short sighted and wonder why other CNC devices aren’t also being banned like CNC routers, laser cutters, laser engravers, pen plotters, etc since these all use similar designs and mechanical systems. Where do you draw the line? I can understand only wanting hand made or vintage items but if technology is advancing past that and the market isn’t really there for those items, then what’s the purpose of the site? What are they going to tell both buyers and sellers that they’re not the type of clientele they want on their platform? That seems nuts as a business.

Interesting that just blasting metal with high speed metal particles actually offers structural support back to the metal. I wonder how the strength compared to a new piece of metal of the same thickness.

Yeah the rapid pace of technological innovation these days is really astounding at times.

I broke down and googled it and it’s a reusable menstrual cup, so I think my guess was the closest.

Depends on how far you throw it.

That doesn’t really answer the question and also introduces issues with situations like Bambu’s Creator’s Program (or whatever it’s called) where you can pay the model creator for the rights to sell the item. I don’t see why they need to target 3D prints specifically when Etsy is absolutely chock full of similar duplicates in other mediums. They’re just going to drive people away to a new site, which is fine I suppose, but seems incredibly short sighted.

Like a Frisbee?

How do you prove you’re the creator of a model without directly handing your IP over to this company?

Probably not much of a difference. These mini PCs can run at single digit wattage too and you won’t be buying new SD cards every 6 months.

The market is about to be flooded with them with Windows 10 going EoL in October.

I bet you could instead use an ESP32 for GPIO and just connect it remotely to whatever Pi alternative you use (if needed at all). Turning some switches on and off while monitoring input values doesn’t sound very computationally intensive.

I think this really depends on the model they’re eyeballing because the Pi5 is frankly ridiculous for the price and has absurd power requirements (5V5A USB?). I wouldn’t recommend one of these unless you have a specific need like a certain hat or the GPIO pins. You can get a Dell micro Optiplex for less money and have a full fledged i5 or i7 processor with similar power usage.

Plus the RPi Foundation exposed themselves as the greedy bastards they are during COVID which is yet another reason to turn your back on them.

For something like a Pi Zero, maybe go for it, but there are similar devices out there from other companies too.

I honestly think it’s more of a gimmick than anything because no two identical printers will run exactly the same and there’s no way for it to accurately account for filament issues like poor quality plastic or moisture content. I can’t see it being any more accurate than basic guidance or real general things to watch out for like printing overhangs without supports.

My Bambu X1C will do both of these and tell you when it’s time to lube the Z axis screws for example, but I think all printers will shut down if the thermistor (what measures the heat) is reading incorrectly due to it being bad or a problem with the extruder heater since not doing so could be catastrophic rather than just giving you a shitty quality print.

What do you classify as independent?

Try reducing the line width especially for the initial layer. I googled about Arachne line generator and it looks like it’s the default wall generator in PrusaSlicer as of v2.5. I can’t tell if you’re using a textured build plate or not but you could also try swapping to a smooth one (or vice versa) and seeing if that makes any difference. You don’t even need to print the whole tab for testing, just the first few layers to see if you’re on the right track.

You could also try using a 0.2mm nozzle just for the white filament and seeing if that helps.

This is a resolution issue, so think about X & Y settings rather than Z settings like layer height. You need to reduce the line width and/or use a smaller nozzle like 0.2mm. You might also have a bit too much squish on your first layer which you could measure by printing a line and measuring it with calipers and comparing the slicer value to the actual value to see if there’s any difference.

I’m not familiar with PrusaSlicer but Bambu Studio has a wall generating setting called “Arachne” which does a better job of generating the small features/walls you need for text even with a 0.4mm nozzle. You might see if there’s a comparable setting for Prusa.

Comcast has done some wizardry to finally allow decent upload speeds as of late. For years I’ve had 900Mbps down and 15Mbps up but with whatever upgrade they’ve done, I’m now at 900/200 which is decent enough. I honestly don’t even need all this download bandwidth and would be happy with 500/500 but most people aren’t running media servers and hundreds of torrents so they don’t dedicate much to upload bandwidth.

Technology has continued to progress but I think many cable providers are capping at around 100 mbps. I could be wrong.

I think most are offering as high as 1-2Gbps (asymmetrical) with cable. That’s what Comcast is offering in our area. With 100Mbps CenturyLink DSL being the only alternative.