Fuck yeah!

I had installed it anyway and it had some pretty severe texture issues, I’m looking forward to trying it out!

That’s a really good point about the nozzles.

I don’t know if it will be faster than a tool changer (I doubt it, but I suspect the difference will be pretty negligible), but it will be much faster than swapping material the way it has been. Purging the plastic from the nozzle takes a while, especially if swapping between, say, PETG/PCTG and PLA for support purposes. Or PVA for that matter. Basically anything where mixing the filaments can compromise the structural integrity of the result you need additional purging.

The time it takes to retract filament into the AMS and then send out the new is pretty small. The longest part of the process is the purging.

Obviously a tool changer is a solid solution to this problem, but I gotta be honest I’m curious to see how this one plays out. And it never hurts to have more solutions to a problem within the industry.

Not wrong, lol. Cheaper than a bunch of toolheads though, I assume.

Also Bambu has completely lost all trust from everyone

No they haven’t. They’ve lost trust from a lot of the hobbyist community, sure, but they’ve tapped a whole new market. And at the risk of having to hand in my hobbyist badge, the slippery slope argument that closed firmware means they’ll someday require DRM for filament is nonsensical. They know what happens to companies who pull that. And they don’t need it anyway. Plenty of people will exclusively buy their filament anyway since it’s the same company that made their printer. From a business perspective they stand to lose far more than they gain locking down filaments.

Don’t get me wrong, the firmware situation is infuriating. And for those who prefer the 3D printer side of the hobby over the 3D printing side, it’s a non-starter. But the field has expanded and most users aren’t power users now.

Depends on the game. For example, on the Xbox Series X or PS5, I often elect for better graphics (raytracing, 4K, etc) at 30fps, especially with third-person titles where you can really appreciate the scenery. God of War Ragnarok in 4K with raytracing is a sight to behold on a big OLED TV. But some games (most first person titles, racing games, and perhaps surprisingly Diablo 4) I prefer the higher framerate.

If I were a squijillionaire, I’d have a 5090 and get both framerate and fidelity. But I am not. I am a humble console peasant taking his earliest steps in the PC gaming world.

Oh I forgot about WiFi 6E. Suuuuuper good for streaming from your PC.

Graphically intense games can be good too, especially in bed, streaming from a PC in the other room.

An etched screen protector can help, but isn’t as nice as the native etched glass. The underlying screen is the same OLED as the 512GB, I believe.

The OLED model is also just better. Got a few minor upgrades other than the screen. Faster RAM, better battery life, slightly lighter. Maybe some other changes.

You can get an etched glass screen protector that emulates the effect. The one I got isn’t as good as the base screen (which is essentially perfect), it has a very small amount of color scrambling if you look really closely due to the nature of the etching, but it’s not bad and I got used to it quickly.

That’s fair, but I can tell you from experience there’s no way it’s going to fall out during the lifetime of that elastic. I say this because it’s mildly annoying to extract it (which, admittedly, isn’t an issue with a dedicated pocket).

I think not having room for the charger is a valid complaint.

It fits great in the elastic-covered spot on the back, especially if you use something like this.

Get the 1TB with the etched screen if you’re considering it. It looks fantastic, and works great when not indoors. Like, in a car or airplane for example. I was debating between it and the 512GB because I often prefer a glossy screen, but the effect is small yet mighty.

Also, get Moonlight on your Steam Deck and Apollo on your PC. You can stream games from your PC with Apollo to Moonlight at much higher quality than Steam’s own streaming system. I send 1440p to my deck so after chroma subsampling I get fully defined 1280x720 pixels. It looks significantly better than just sending 1280x720 or 1280x800 to the Deck.

And finally, pick up Geometry Wars 3. It’s like the perfect pick-up-and-put-down game for the Deck.

Sounds like Linus Torvalds’s code review comments got into the training data.

Enclosure makes printing some plastics much easier/safer, and it’s become common/inexpensive enough to be a “default” option, especially with options like the Carbon being so affordable.

But the tool has to fit its purpose. If you only print PLA/PETG, then it’s not really necessary. I mostly leave the door off my printer, and only attach it when I need to print ASA or ABS.

I might be seeing it wrong, hard to tell from just this perspective, but could it be placed so the entire side, or entire back, is making contact with the bed? Increasing your contact surface can help dramatically as I said in my other reply.

Check your bed adhesion (clean the bed with detergent and hot water, and I recommend a quick wipe with 91% IPA before each print) to prevent the model rotation seen in this picture, but in general parts with that little bed contact can be difficult to print correctly. If you can’t find an orientation that fits on the bed with more surface area, then slow the print down to minimize forces pushing the print. While supports help, they don’t hold onto the print as firmly as the bed does (on purpose).

I’ve run into some frustrating issues with small contact points with print beds. Another option is to use a smooth PEI plate and use a glue stick or Bed Weld or something to help improve adhesion.