Except it’s bigger and heavier and zero foldables have had two opposing hinges. But OK.
Except it’s bigger and heavier and zero foldables have had two opposing hinges. But OK.
With something that large and the hinges folding in opposite directions one will want to fold when you are pressing on the screen.
Seems like a really cool idea. Two problems.
It will be heavy and fragile.
How does it stay locked in the tablet form? Will you be able to use it without it folding? And if it does lock, how does it unlock and how tiny and fragile are those locks going to be?
Yeah, that would be pretty accurate seeing as they sold their mobile phone business. This sale is about their mobile network technology that would mean Samsung is more of a conglomerate and would have more power to dictate standards in the industry.
You can’t both push a bunch of extra material and print faster. Hotends have volumetric limits.
You can also increase bed temp and slow down the early layers. If those fail adhesive is the way to go. Definitely washing is the best first step though.
I only brought it up because they brought up the soldering iron in their post. I could probably replace one of those surface mount drivers, but I also wouldn’t. Not when you can buy a whole board for $20usd.
I’m assuming this is a stock motherboard with motor drivers soldered directly to the board without daughter boards and sockets?
Without digging in deeper it sounds like your motor driver is dead. If it’s a stock board you need to replace the entire thing. If you don’t already own a soldering iron and multi-meter then we can skip past the fantasy that you could replace a surface mount stepper driver yourself.
Good news is replacement boards are very cheap. There are great replacement options from both Creality and BigTreeTech. I would go with one of the drop in options, BTT will have E3 in the name. If you’re feeling more adventurous and don’t mind putting in more time and effort you can get a non-drop in board that has sockets instead of hard wired stepper drivers. That would allow you to drop in a replacement driver if this happens again. However it’s going to take significantly more effort, especially on the software side, before you get your printer running again.
Also, my advice is if you’re going to own a complex hobby electronics device like an Ender 3 you need to own your own multi meter.
What material is it made from? Thermoplastics tend to warp under stress.
It would take very little force at the far end of the lever you made out of your laptop too cause damage near the stand.
Sounds like that carve out could easily be abused to defeat the entire purpose.
I’ll buy a server farm and train an LLM. Won’t take the whole month.
Looks glossy, are you printing too hot?
Great way to stifle competition and keep prices inflated. I’m sure Formlabs’ investors are chuffed.
Hah, fuck that.
The OG Ender 3 has about the shittiest cheapest extruder you can design. But it sounds like you’ve ruled that out.
Did you ever do the hotend PTFE fix? It’s prone to clogging because the Bowden tube goes all the way to the nozzle and gets pulled out during retractions.
Lol, English is weird.
The last thing you should be doing when going to bed is watching videos on your phone.
If you haven’t found him already. https://youtube.com/@tombof3dprintedhorrors
His videos are great, he recently fell in love with the Bambu bed slingers. His minis are designed for FDM which is something you’re going to have to look for.
Just be sure they can print in the desired material. A part for a car is going to need to be resistant to heat and potentially UV in ways that the most common material, PLA, is not.